As one of the world's most exotic tourist resorts and with (for Brazil) a relatively large middle-class population, Rio is well served by restaurants offering a wide variety of cuisines - from traditional Brazilian to French and Japanese. In general, however, eating out in Rio is not cheap - and it can be very expensive - but there's no shortage of low-priced places to grab a lunchtime meal, or just a snack and a drink: at a galeto, where you eat, diner-style, at the counter; or at a lanchonete, the ubiquitous Brazilian café, which serves very cheap combined plates of meat, beans and rice, as well as other snacks.

Cariocas dine late, and restaurants don't start to fill up until after 9pm. Generally, last orders will be taken around midnight in most places, but there are others where you can get a meal well after 2am.

Feijoada

Feijoada is the most famous Brazilian dish. It is made of black beans with different kinds of meat such as ribs, pork, sausage, dried beef, and bacon. It is served with rice and collard greens prepared with olive oil, orange, and farofa, which is made of garlic, onion, butter, eggs, and mandioca (a special flour). This dish is usually served at lunchtime because it is a little heavy and you need time to digest it, even if you eat the orange to help your digestion. Feijoada originated from the leftovers that upper class people in the past left for their slaves, but it has become sophisticated.

Churrascarias

A number of Rio's churrascarias (barbecue houses) serve their meats rodízio style. For a set price (approximately $10-15 U.S.), a selection of salads, beans and potatoes is laid out before you, followed by the repeated arrival of the waiter bearing roast meats skewered on a sword. You choose the piece that takes your fancy, and the waiter deftly transfers it from skewer to plate - cuts of filet mignon, pork, chicken, ham, sausage, brisket of beef, and anything else that's had its head over a gate. The following churrascarias are all recommended:

• Estrela do Sul (Avenida Reporter Nestor Moreira, Botafogo). This place has a long history and a good reputation.
• Gaúcha (Rua das Laranjeiras 114, near Largo do Machado). A bit of a barn, but with live music and a dance floor.
• Majórica (Rua Senador Vergueiro 11-15, Flamengo). A long-established, better-than-average place to attack a T-bone. If you're not in the mood for beef, try the excellent trout from near Petrópolis.
• Marius (Av. Atlântica 290, at the top end of Leme's beach). Probably the most popular rodízio in Rio, it seats over three hundred, and what it lacks in elegance it makes up for in service and atmosphere.
• Plataforma (Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon). Upstairs, tourists are entertained by a samba show, downstairs you mingle with cariocas - and afterwards you can always stagger to the Academia de Cachaça round the corner, and sample a few with the benefit of a good lining in the stomach.

Fast Food, Snacks, Cakes and Ice Cream

There's no shortage of hamburger joints in Rio but you'll get better, more authentic and cheaper food at any galeto or lanchonete - there are plenty in the Centro or at Copacabana, though most are closed at night.

If you're just peckish, then it's nice to take tea and cakes at Confeitaria Colombo, in the Centro at Rua Gonçalves Dias 32. Founded in 1894, the Colombo recalls Rio's belle époque, with its ornate interior decoration and air of tradition.

In Copacabana, and good for sandwiches, is Cervantes, Av. Prado Junior 335 (near Leme); at Leblon you'll get a fresh, crisp salad at Gulla Gulla in the Hotel Marina Palace, Avenida Delfim Moreira - a bit pricier than usual, but recommended.

There are more cakes at the Bonbon d'Or, Rua Visc. de Pirajá 351 in Ipanema, or at any branch of Kopenhagen.

For a choice of ice cream, aim especially for Mr Ice, Rua Ayres e Saldanha 98, Copacabana; Babuska, at Rua Aníbal de Mendonça 55, Ipanema, and Rua Rainha Guilhermina 90, Leblon; or - if you're visiting the Jardim Botânico - Mil Frutas, Rua Jardim Botânico 585.

The Polis bar on Avenida Ataúlfo Paiva in Leblon is a particularly good place for a suco (fresh, iced fruit juice).

Check the fruit markets for something exotic and healthy: at Botafogo on Wednesday by Praça Canoinhas; Flamengo on Sunday in Largo do Machado; Copacabana on Thursday near Praça do Lido.