Rio de Janeiro is served by two airports. The one at Santos Dumont deals mainly with the shuttle services to and from São Paulo, Brasília and Belo Horizonte, and is at the north end of the Parque de Flamengo, immediately east of Centro. From there, every 40 minutes ($7) an air-conditioned executivo bus will take you through the Zona Sul, stopping wherever passengers want to get off along the beaches of Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and São Conrado.

Taxis are readily available from outside the terminal but you're likely to be overcharged by drivers not willing to activate the meter - the fare should amount to around $20 to Copacabana. If it's your first visit to Rio or if your Portuguese is poor, a less stressful option is to purchase a voucher from one of the many radio-taxi stands within the terminal. You'll be directed to your cab and will be charged a flat rate of around $30 to Copacabana.

Alternatively, cross the road and catch an ordinary bus from Avenida Marechal Câmara, which you can reach by crossing the pedestrian walkway in front of the airport terminal: #438 to Ipanema and Leblon via Botafogo; #442 to Urca; #472 to Leme. For Copacabana, #484 goes from Avenida General Justo, over which the walkway crosses.

The International Airport at Galeão lies on the Ilha do Governador in Guanabara Bay, 14km north of the city.To reach your hotel, catch one of the air-conditioned executivo buses, which run every half-hour between 5.20am and 11pm, either via Centro to Santos Dumont, or along the coast, via Centro, to Copacabana and on to Sao Conrado. Outside these hours, a taxi ride is the only alternative. Buy a ticket at either the Cootramo, Coopertramo or Transcoopassdesks, near the arrivals gate, and give it to the driver at the taxi rank; to Flamengo costs abut $22, Copacabana $30. Use the air-conditioned taxis operated by the airport; it's best not to take ordinary taxis (yellow with a blue stripe), and don't accept a lift from one of the unofficial drivers hanging about in the airport.

There's a new highway out to the airport and the drive takes about fifteen minutes into the centre or around half an hour to Zona Sul, unless you meet the rush hour. The drive will take you through one of Rio's industrial sectors - so don't worry if it looks a bit grim at first; you're going the right way.

Heading out to the international airport, arrange for a fixed-fare taxi to pick you up from your hotel (get reception to do it or phone Transcoopass 270-4888, Coopertramo 260-2022 or Cootramo 270-1442), or take the air-conditioned bus which follows the Zona Sul coastline and can be picked up on Avenida Delfim Moreira (Leblon), Avenida Vieira Souto (Ipanema), Avenida Atlântica (Copacabana), Avenida Beira Mar (Flamengo), or on the Avenida Rio Branco in Centro.

Within Rio, use taxis - again, easy but expensive; or try the local buses if you dare, a bargain at 80 little centavos. The local bus network is quite comprehensive and if you plan to spend a few days here, it is well worth getting familiar with the system.

Rio also has an excellent, albeit limited, subway system. Considerably safer than the buses, it is also lots more comfortable. It is especially useful if you plan on staying in Flamengo or Catete. Tickets are 95 centavos.

You can also call a taxi to pick you up anywhere, anytime, at no extra charge. JB Taxi is very reliable. Call them at 508-3026 or 508-3027/2674/3940. Ligue-Taxi provides a similar service at 568-7384 or 234-7320.